H&M (Hennes & Mauritz), a major Swedish “fast fashion”
retailer, led 30 international companies this week to commit to
a new $3 billion fund to improve the safety of garment factories
in Bangladesh. Watchdog organizations say the companies acted only because
of external pressure by activists and workers.
The announcement came
weeks after Rana Plaza, a building that housed five garment factories, collapsed
in Bangladesh last month leaving over 1,100 dead. While H&M was not among
the many international buyers that were found to have contracts with the
factories, the disaster sparked an activist campaign that put an enormous amount
of pressure on the company which is the second biggest garment retailer in the
world and the biggest buyer of clothes from Bangladesh.
Changes in labor
and safety practices generally occur "
not for philanthropic reasons but because protests were starting
to disturb the supply chain" Nayla Ajaltouni, coordinator of the French
branch of Clean Clothes Campaign told Agence France Press after riots in
Bangladesh in 2010 led to an increase in the minimum wage there. Two years later
the story is still the same.
Responding to
Disaster
In the days following the Rana Plaza collapse, even as
emergency workers dug bodies out of the rubble and families of missing workers
fought police in heated street demonstrations,
the Walt Disney company, which
sources production of toys and clothes from low wage countries around the world,
announced it was planning to leave Bangladesh by March 2014.
But H&M
said it had no plans to move.
Hanging in the balance are the jobs of over
four million workers in Bangladesh who depend on the $20 billion garment
industry for their living. The company had the tacit support of many labor
organizers who want companies that source from Bangladesh to become more
responsible.
“We want buyers to stay and use their power to ensure
factories treat workers decently,” says Kalpona Akter, an organizer with the
Bangladesh Center for Worker Solidarity.
H&M’s decision to stay is
not entirely altruistic: after all
Bangladesh has the world’s lowest minimum
wage - $38 a month. Safety is a major concern: Clean Clothes Campaign estimates
that more than 500 garment workers died on the job between 2006 and
2012.
One reason, say union organizers, is that
corrupt government
officials tended to look the other way during safety inspections, especially
since many senior politicians own garment factories themselves.
To
address these issues,
Bangladeshi and international unions came up with a proposal
titled the “Accord on Fire and Building Safety” that they brought to global
retailers, suppliers, NGOs, unionists and government officials at a meeting in
Dhaka during April 2011. Intended to be a legally enforceable agreement between
retailers, unions and suppliers, it promised a total of $3 billion to fund an
independent monitoring body that would oversee all of Bangladesh’s 5,000
factories. If a factory did not meet certain standards, it could be shut
down.
Two years ago, the plan was wildly unpopular. When the unions
pushed it,
Walmart’s representative shot it down. “It is not financially feasible for the brands to make such
investments,” Walmart’s spokesperson said, according to the meeting
minutes.
H&M, the Gap and other retailers also attended the meeting.
All of the big brands and factories all walked away without
signing the agreement, said Amirul Haque Amin, president of the National
Garment Workers Federation in Bangladesh.
A Change of
Heart
After the Rana Plaza collapse, the unions’ stalemated
safety plan suddenly gained traction as public outcry over the deaths mounted.
Avaaz, a progressive global campaign group, collected almost one
million signatures to pressure H&M and the Gap to sign the
agreement.
Initially H&M did not respond.
Avaaz then
racheted up the pressure – it launched
an
ad campaign featuring a photo of Karl-Johan Persson, CEO of H&M, alongside a
young Bangladeshi woman in tears.
The ad asked the CEOs of H&M
and the Gap to take personal responsibility for the deaths of the Bangladeshi
workers. “These factories aren’t sweatshops, they’re deathshops. Hundreds of
women have been crushed to death making our clothes,” Avaaz said in a May 9
press release. “Two major clothing companies have signed the robust safety
agreement, including
PVH -- the owner of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger -- but
GAP and H&M have yet to state their positions.”
Both Dagens Industri,
a Swedish newspaper, and Women’s Wear Daily magazine, a major industry
publication, refused to run the ad, says Avaaz. But as a signature campaign
started to get hundreds of thousands of signatures on Facebook, H&M caved
and announced it would adopt the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in
Bangladesh.
“Our strong presence in Bangladesh gives us the opportunity
to contribute to the improvement of the lives of hundreds of thousands of people
and contribute to the community’s development,”
Helena Helmersson, an H&M spokesperson, claimed in a press
release. “By being on site, put demands on manufacturers and work for
continuous improvements, we can slowly but surely contribute to lasting
changes.”
The company immediately received accolades in the press for
“setting an example” and for
making a “game-changing” move.
(It should be noted that
while H&M has committed to pay a maximum of €500,000 ($640,000) a year into
the new building fund, the figure represents a little less than 0.02 percent of
the $2.7 billion in profits the company made last year)
Cambodia
Victory
This is not the first time that H&M has agreed to
change its ways as a result of unwelcome activist attention.
For example,
Cambodia is often promoted as an alternative to Bangladesh for apparel
production. There the minimum wage for garment workers is $66 a month, the
second-lowest in the world. Although safety standards are better than in
Bangladesh, low pay, long hours, and employers breaking laws are common there,
unions say.
In February 2012, Asia Floor Wage Alliance, a Cambodian labor
group, held a two-day “
People’s Tribunal on for Minimum Living Wages and Decent Working
Conditions for Garment Workers as a Fundamental Right.” Garment workers
testified on their experiences of poverty, short-term contracts, substandard
housing conditions and an epidemic of workplace fainting.
H&M was
invited to attend but did not.
"The tribunal reveals a chasm between the
CSR [corporate social responsibility] speak of international garment companies
and the real situation faced by Asian garment workers," said Anannya
Bhattacharjee, coordinator of the International Asia Floor Wage
Alliance.
Bhattacharjee said that the core issue was that garment workers
need to be paid more.
"The wage issue is a cross border problem and needs
to be addressed as such. International players must work together and use the
Asia Floor Wage figure to
combat poverty pay in the garment sector," she
said.
A year later, some 200 Cambodian workers, who sewed underwear for
Kingsland Garment Company, a sub-contractor to H&M and Walmart, camped
outside their factory in Phnom Penh and held a two-day hunger strike when the
company suddenly shut down and seized payment of their legally mandated
unemployment wages.
“
We decided to start sleeping outside of the factory to prevent
management from taking the machinery out,” Yorn Sok Leng, 30, told Labor
Notes, an activist media organization.
Within days, the companies paid
them $235,000 in wages owed, handing the organizers a rare
victory.
Next Step: Minimum Industry Wage
New
protests across Bangladesh are forcing yet more changes. Strikes effectively
shut down most of the garment factories for much of last week – as workers
rallied to demand better wages and working conditions.
Days ago
Bangladesh officials finally gave in and announced that the minimum wage would
be raised for the first time since 2010. Persson, the H&M CEO, also
agreed to support an increase in the Bangladesh minimum
wage.
These incremental changes are not enough, says Muhammad Yunus,
founder of the micro-credit Grameen Bank in Bangladesh and Nobel Peace Prize
winner, who argues that a global approach is needed.
“
I propose that foreign buyers jointly fix a minimum international
wage for the industry,” he wrote in the Guardian recently. “This might be
about 50 cents an hour, twice the level typically found in Bangladesh. This
minimum wage would be an integral part of reforming the industry, which would
help to prevent future tragedies. We have to make international companies
understand that while the workers are physically in Bangladesh, they are
contributing their labour to the businesses: they are stakeholders. Physical
separation should not be grounds to ignore the wellbeing of this
labour.”
Yunus also suggested raising the final retail price of an item
by 50 cents. “Would a consumer in a shopping mall feel upset if they were asked
to pay $35.50 instead of $35? My answer is no, they won't even notice,” he
said.
(Incidentally most U.S. retail chains have not signed on to the
Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh. Instead, following the Rana
Plaza collapse, Walmart and other companies announced their own voluntary
monitoring systems and safety programs, which some activists say was little more
than a public relations campaign. "It's not surprising, and the timing is fishy," said Brian
Finnegan, global worker rights coordinator at the AFL-CIO. "The whole point of
what we're doing is to make it binding and
enforceable.")
DHAKA, Bangladesh (AP) — Hundreds of survivors of last month's collapse of a building housing garment factories in Bangladesh protested for compensation Tuesday, as the death toll from the country's worst-ever industrial disaster passed 700.
The police control room overseeing the recovery operation said the death toll stood at 705 on Tuesday afternoon as workers pulled more bodies out of the wreckage of the eight-story building that was packed with workers at five garment factories when it collapsed on April 24. The factories were making clothing bound for major retailers around the world.
The disaster is the worst ever in the garment sector, surpassing the 1911 garment disaster in New
York's Triangle Shirtwaist factory, which killed 146 workers, and more recent tragedies such as a 2012 fire that killed about 260 people in Pakistan and one in Bangladesh that killed 112, also in 2012. It is also one of the deadliest industrial accidents ever.
No one knows what the final toll will be, as the exact number of people inside Rana Plaza at the time of the collapse was unknown. More than 2,500 people were rescued alive.
Hundreds of garment workers who survived the disaster blocked a major highway near the accident site in a Dhaka suburb on Tuesday to demand the payment of wages and other benefits. No violence was reported, although traffic was disrupted for hours.
Local government administrator Yousuf Harun said they are working with the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association to ensure the workers get paid.
The workers, many who made little more than the national minimum wage of about $38 per month, are demanding at least four months in salary. The workers had set Tuesday as the deadline for the payment of wages and other benefits.
The BGMEA had said Monday that it was preparing a "complete list" of the workers employed in the factories and they would need a few more days to finish it and to clear the salary.
Bangladesh earns nearly $20 billion a year from exports of the garment products, mainly to the United States and Europe.
Authorities have not set any specific timeframe to complete the recovery operation at the building site, saying they will continue until all bodies and debris are removed.
Officials say the building's owner illegally added three floors to Rana Plaza and allowed the garment factories to install heavy machines and generators.
Photos on link: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/05/07/bangladesh-building-collapse-death-toll-700_n_3227277.html